|
Do you have a catalog? This web site is our storefront and the only catalog we have. Since our inventory changes so often, a print catalog would not be feasible at this time. If you would like to subscribe to our newsletter, we will let you know when we have them available. What would you suggest to be the best way to get a good casting from molds that are very detailed or have with many little openings in the design. You have several options when using molds with holes or ones that are very detailed. Options for molds that show holes in the casted piece. · You can cut them out with a craft knife (if you are using clay) before it is baked. It is easier to do this if you put it in the freezer for about 15 to 30 minutes first. This also helps cut down on fingerprints. · Your casting will often look just as nice if the holes are left closed, but it depends on which mold you are using. · Another option is to sand the back of the mold (flat side) after it is baked, until the holes show through. You can do this by rubbing the flat side of the mold face-up over a sheet of sand-paper on a flat work surface.
Options for molds that have very detailed edges. · You can cut them out with a craft knife as well, before it is baked. You can freeze first to cut down on finger prints. · Your casting will often look just as nice with the edges left on the casting, depending on which mold you are using. · Another option is to sand the back of the mold (flat side) after it is baked, until the edges are sanded off. You can do this by rubbing the flat side of the mold face-up over a sheet of sand-paper on a flat work surface. 7 Solutions to Clay Molding Problems 1. THE PROBLEM: the clay isn't picking up the fine detail in the mold. WHY THIS IS HAPPENING: the clay is very firm and cannot get into the small parts of the mold. SOLUTION: condition the clay thoroughly and then use more pressure when you press it into the mold. Press firmly with your fingers so that the clays gets into even the minutest pattern. If it still doesn't work then try mixing some translucent with your clay to soften it up a bit.
2. THE PROBLEM: the image distorts when you pull it out of the mold. WHY THIS IS HAPPENING: your clay is very soft and this is why it is distorting. SOLUTION: fill the mold as usual and put it aside, or place it in the fridge for a while. Please read our complete instructions to learn more about this technique.
3. THE PROBLEM: the clay keeps lifting out of the mold as you are pressing it in. WHY THIS IS HAPPENING: this generally happens only with very shallow molds as there is not enough depth to "grip" the clay. SOLUTION: wipe your fingers on a damp cloth before you press the clay each time. This forms a barrier between the clay and your fingertips and stops it sticking to you.
4. THE PROBLEM: creases and lines on the pressed image. WHY THIS IS HAPPENING: the clay isn't smooth before you press it into the mold. SOLUTION: condition your clay well and roll it into a ball - this will smooth out any lines and creases. Make a pancake shape or spread the clay so that it is almost the size and shape of the image and fill the mold.
5. THE PROBLEM: back of pressed image is not flat. WHY THIS IS HAPPENING: your fingertips aren't flat so the back will not be either. SOLUTION: if you want a perfectly flat back place a piece of glass over the filled mold and press until you can see that it is flat. You may have to trim any "overspread" with a craft knife. Note - if you place a stiff piece of clear plastic sheet (sold on our tools page) you can pull it out easier. Please read our complete instructions to learn more about this technique.
6. THE PROBLEM: some parts of the mold are tricky to fill. WHY THIS IS HAPPENING: some molds have thin areas or parts that are close together. SOLUTION: overfill the mold and then trim the unmolded piece with a craft knife before you use or bake the piece.
7. THE PROBLEM: the mold is getting dirty WHY THIS IS HAPPENING: well, this will happen when it is being used! SOLUTION: wipe the mold out with a wet wipe or use dishwashing liquid and a soft cloth. Or try cleaning your molds with isopropyl alcohol after each use. This will make them last longer, and it will also make the next use easier-- no sticky residue to contend with.
Can I make beads from these molds? Yes, you can! If you are using clay just run a needle through it where you want the hole to be. If it is difficult to handle without distorting the image, just partially freeze it for awhile before making the hole to keep it's shape a little bit better. Molded shapes make great focal or centerpiece beads, or dangles for earrings and charms. The possibilities are endless! Bead rollers are available to make perfect fingerprint free beads. |
|
NEXT ► |
|
How do you keep clay castings from sticking to the mold? Clay can stick to the mold and distort the design when you pull the clay free. Remembering to use a release agent makes life much easier.
Liquids:
· Water - This is the cheapest alternative and a favorite, because it won't build up in crevices like other agents do. Water works especially well for detailed molds. Water is a good release for Premo and Sculpey, but isn't generally recommended for Fimo and Cernit, which absorb moisture. · Glycerin-- This can be useful for casting detailed items. Another benefit of using glycerin is that it doesn't affect surface treatments on the clay (like paint or Pearl-Ex). · Armor-all-- This product is silicone-based. Nothing will stick to it. While this makes it a good mold release, it can complicate things if you want to add surface treatments (including Future or Varathane) to the clay, afterwards. · Petroleum-based release agents-- Vaseline or mineral oil (baby oil) are sometimes used. Don't use these products with latex molds, however, because they will react with the mold and destroy it.
Powders:
· Cornstarch is our personal favorite choice. It usually washes right off with cool water, though you may want to let the piece cool before rinsing it. · Baby or Talcum powder is another alternative. However, some people think that this leaves a residue, even after washing. Residue, if there is any, can be sanded or buffed away. Brushes off the clay piece before or after baking. · Baking soda may help control odors during curing. · Mica powders, metal pulvers, embossing powders, and powdered chalk can be used, too, though they generally cost more than the other alternatives. Do double duty as a mold release and a decorative effect. · Potato starch, rice flour, and arrowroot powder and other powdered food products may serve as release agents, as well.
Apply the mold release to your ball of clay before pushing it into the mold. If your clay still distorts when you pull it free of the mold, you can also try freezing the clay and mold for a few minutes before you separate them: this will make the clay firmer and help avoid distortion.
To ensure that your mold will be long-lasting, always use your molds on a flat surface only. Pressing clay or other substance into your mold in your hand instead of on a hard surface will make your mold weak and shorten the life of your molds.
TIP: Be careful not to overdo the corn starch and cover up the design. A light dusting is all you need. Also using well conditioned clay insures longevity of your molds.
What causes clay to stick to the molds? There are several factors that can cause your clay to stick, including clay residue, too little mold release, too soft clay and warm temperatures, all of which are discussed below.
· Clay Residue - Molds can be cleaned with waterless hand cleaner or rubbing alcohol and a soft brush. Make sure the mold is thoroughly dry before using it again.
· Not enough mold release - It is easy to use too much cornstarch. Use a clean, soft brush to remove any excess powder from molds, or rinse them under running water and allow to air dry. The water will dissolve the cornstarch.
· Soft Clay - Mushy or sticky clay can be leached to remove excess plasticizer before molding.
· Warm days - More problems with sticking occur on hot, humid days during the summer months. The simplest solution is to pop the filled mold into the freezer for a few minutes to make the clay firmer and more easily removed. Warm hands will also contribute to sticky clay.
Okay, now what sort of surface should I work on? Marble, glass, and ceramic tile are great work surfaces. Marble also helps to keep them at their best working temperature. Lucite is also a terrific surface to work on. The clay doesn't stick to either surface. Some polymer clay people use baker's parchment paper.
What type of surfaces should I bake clay on? A variety of firing surfaces can be used depending on your need. Some possibilities include: Bristol board, parchment, printer paper, glass, ceramic tile, non-stick baking sheet, cornstarch bed, polyester fiberfill bed, and polymer clay armatures for holding needles.
How do you bake clay castings? Always remove the clay from the molds before baking. Never put the molds themselves in the oven. Follow the clay manufacturer's recommendations for baking your clay castings.
What types of paints work well on baked polymer clay? You can use acrylic craft paints on fired clay. (Don't use oils - they may react with the plasticizer in the clay, like some glazes.) Unlike many surface treatments, paint doesn't require you to glaze the piece afterward to avoid having the surface rub off. You can also use chalk or artists' pencils for special effects. Try using light colors on dark clay, dark colors on light clay. Textured molds hold the paint in the crevices allowing many painting techniques to try.
More Mold Tips: Once your finished piece has been baked and cooled, there are so many finishing techniques to be used to make your project complete, try using colored chalks, a light dusting of various colors adds depth. You can also paint your piece with acrylic paints, or try using "Rub-n-Buffs". You may also seal your finished piece with a clay glaze.
If you would like to send a picture of your finished work, we would be happy to feature it on our site.
|
|
Advanced Instructions |
View these movie clips on YouTube. (a new window will open.)
|
*** See tips for making Cameos here. *** |
|
Mold #495 can be found here. |
|
Copyright © 2004-2009 Designs On Line E-mail the Webmaster |
|
Be notified of page updates |
|
powered by ChangeDetection |
|
ENTER YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS TO BE NOTIFIED WHEN NEW MOLDS ARE ADDED. |
|
Why does my Original Sculpey turn color when baked? Some crafters have experienced that their white Original Sculpey will turn gray or lilac after baking. (when baked at regular baking temps) This is a characteristic of original white Sculpey. To be sure you are not over baking your clay recheck your oven thermometer. To prevent this you can baking it at a lower temperature (around 225) to reduce this effect, but the clay will be very weak. This is one reason why people who started with that clay tended to paint everything. A coat of acrylic gesso will cover a multitude of sins, and prime it for other colors. A convection oven may also improve your results. A convection oven don't have exposed heating elements and have a fan that blows the heat created by the hidden elements around the inside of the baking area. How To Fix Moonies And Other Imperfections In Cured Polymer Clay
Moonies in polymer clay are like a course. They are white spots on the clay and they're shaped as a half moon, a circle, or even a bump. Moonies are just bubbles of air trapped inside the sculpture. These ugly marks can be fixed even though when the clay has been baked or cured. |
